So its been a while since I last posted, so I’ll try to give a relatively concise update of my life happenings. 🙂
A week and a half ago we had a “puente” over the weekend. Not sure if I’ve explained this before or not (I think I have but oh well!) but “puente” in Spanish literally means bridge. When we have a puente it means that there is a holiday on a Thursday, but just for fun there is no work on Friday either. So we have a 4 day weekend, because the Friday is like the “bridge” that connects Thursday to the real weekend 🙂
The last puente I really wanted to do something- I love Coruna, but feel like I want to take advantage of my time here and see new things and places! A friend I have here invited me to go to Lugo with her to see her family and the “matanza do porco” or the tradition of killing a pig for food for the year.
I took the bus there on Thursday evening, and we spent the evening walking around Lugo, walking on the “muralla” there, which is I guess the most well maintained and only complete Roman wall in the world. They were constructed in the 3rd century, and are over 2 km long! It was actually really cool to see them, and to try to imagine what the city was like when they were constructed. One unfortunate part, however, is that a lot of the surrounding buildings aren’t very well maintained. Part of this is because of the crisis in Spain- people just don’t have money to repair things; but also there is a rule/law in Lugo that if you are going to do repairs or remodeling or whatever you have to excavate the surrounding area to check for Roman ruins. If any are found, which they often are, you can’t continue whatever you are doing sooooo a lot of people don’t even want to start the process for fear of not being able to complete it.
We also stopped at a cute feria/market that was there because it’s Christmas time and there were all sorts of artesian foods and crafts for sale. I LOVE visiting these kinds of places, especially when I get to try different and new foods! They are my favorite place to shop, especially because you can find such interesting and unique gifts for people. That is one thing I miss a lot about Buenos Aires, Argentina- there were SO MANY different ferias there with all kinds of interesting and awesome things to see. I’m sure they exist in Spain too, but don’t seem nearly as common, and I have yet to see one in Coruna.
Friday was the actual killing of the pig (or 3 pigs which I came to find out…). This part I was really nervous about. In the past I was vegetarian and vegan for a while. I haven’t been for about 3 years (going to Argentina and being a vegetarian was too hard for me), but I prefer to cook vegetarian food, and don’t like to eat gross, processed meat.
**In the next couple paragraphs I’m going to describe the process of killing the pigs- feel free to skip ahead it if grosses you out!**
I was nervous about seeing how they actually kill the pigs and watching them die. Seeing them once they are dead is ok, so I figured I would maybe take a peek and see how I felt and leave if it was horrible.
By the time we got down to the “house” they were killing the pigs in, for first 2 were already dead. Which is kind of good, because I didn’t have to watch all of them,but kind of bad, because if I was curious to see anything this was my last chance. So I tried to look. Which was difficult because on our way down there we heard the pig squealing and crying and it was horrible. I think it was made worse by the fact that this pig had been nearby while the other 2 were killed, so I think it kind of knew what was coming. Before I even saw the pig I saw a ton of blood coming out of this drain, which grossed me out, and from the angle I was standing I was able to see the pigs legs before its head. And it was strapped down but moving and struggling, so I didn’t think I wanted to see. And then it stopped moving, and I thought maybe it was dead, so I moved to see more, and it was definitely NOT dead yet. Just taking a break from struggling. I only looked for a few seconds at the whole thing, but it was pretty intense- the pig was strapped down, wiggling and moving its legs like it was trying to run, and there was blood pouring out of a whole in its neck. I guess it is important to make sure an animal bleeds if you are going to use it for food because blood can make the meat spoil. Also, according to one of the girls there, pigs like the scent and taste of blood. She said I might see people in their town missing fingers because pigs had bitten them and not let go because the taste of blood drives them crazy. Something I didn’t know…
After killing the pigs the put them one by one in this wooden coffin-like thing to wash and clean them. The poured really hot water over their bodies and scraped off the hair and dirt to clean them. Then they hung them by their back legs.

Washing the pigs

Hanging and opening
Then the cut the pigs open, took out the intestines and organs, and let the pigs hang overnight to cool down and bleed some more. Then they took stomach and tripe to be washed because later they will be used as food.

Lavando las tripas

All clean!
Then we all had lunch together, and my friends family is SO NICE! Her dad answered all of the questions I had during the killing of the pigs, and seemed to really be interested in sharing the tradition with me. I felt so welcome there, and the food was delicious! There was also some yummy wine, which my friends brother kept serving me. So at about 4 when we were done I was really full and kind of tipsy, and wanted to make sure I took advantage of the Spanish tradition of the “siesta” and instead ended up sleeping 2.5 hours… oops!
The next day we went back to the pigs and I got to see how they cut them up to use them for food. This was really cool because I got to really see what part of the pig each type of meat comes from, and I feel like I learned a ton. It was also amazing to think about how this process was originally started, and what the first people who cut up pigs were thinking! It was really cool watching, but I kind of felt useless (which, to be honest I was… I wasn’t adding anything to their experience, but I was learning a ton!). Luckily my friends sister-in-law had no problem including me! I help them separate some of the meat and put in in bags for different family members to take. At first they said they felt bad because they didn’t want me to get my hands dirty, but I don’t really care about dirty, and would rather be helping!

Cutting up the piggy
I also helped later in the evening while the women were making salchichones- A bunch of meat and some fat gets ground up and pushed into intestines, and then tied before they are hung up to be smoked. And I got to help tie!

Tying salchichones

Ready to hang!

Hanging
And that was pretty much my experience with the killing of the pigs!
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Now, heres some other cool stuff we did.
We were staying in this little town called San Xillao de Bocamaos, which was amazingly beautiful and rural, but only about 15 minutes outside of the city of Lugo. My friend grew up here, so it was really cool to see how people really live, and to have her show me some of the beautiful places that I could never have found on my own.

Pretty

Also pretty

Hanging bridge

Miño River

At a molino (watermill)
Another really lovely thing about Lugo itself is that when you order a drink you get a tapa. For free. And a pincho. These are just different little foods you get, but they are AWESOME because you can go around and try all sorts of different tapas, only pay for your pretty cheap drink, and you don’t even have to have dinner! In Coruna the tapas are almost never free. There are some places that bring you a little something to eat, but not nearly as much as Lugo.
Also while I was there I saw another dog in a weird place. And this time it was a bar. And not only was there one dog; there were two. One was a little dog it its owner’s purse, and the other was a real sized dog in a leash at the back of the bar. They moved to the front, and the bar tender gave them the evil eye, which I’m glad about because IT’S NOT OK TO HAVE DOGS IN BARS!

Not ok.
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Last week was really busy because it was my last week in Coruna before coming to Madrid and the heading HOME! I tried to squeeze in seeing as many people as I could, which left me exhausted, but also SO excited for the holidays! Is was also suuuper nice because the 2 families that I teach private English classes to gave me gifts! I feel really lucky to be working with them because the kids are super sweet, and the parents are awesome. Its also nice to know “real” people in Coruna. It helps me feel grounded and connected there.
On Friday I took the overnight train to Madrid, and I’m spending the weekend here before I fly home TOMORROW! Saturday my friend and I walked around and went shopping, and went salsing dancing! It was absolutely amazing. I love dancing, and its awesome to have another friend who loves it as much as I do. It was also nice here because the places are much bigger than in Coruna, and a ton more people go. Madrid is also cool because there are people from all over the world here. At salsa I danced with people from Ecuador, Peru, Spain, Cameroon, Mexico, and the Dominican Republic. So cool!
However, I would never want to live here. After living in Buenos Aires, I realized that big cities are really NOT for me. At all. They are too crowded and fast and stressful and cold. It is so easy to feel lonely in them. And while I guess it is possible to feel lonely anywhere, and big cities have tons of opportunities for anything you could ever want, I prefer smaller cities. It is nice to recognize people when you go places, to feel safe, and to have all of your friends live within a 30 minute walk. In Coruna I’m starting to feel like I have a community and a routine, which I love.
I’m glad that I like it so much because I am about to go “visit” home. And I guess technically my “home” is in Spain now, which feels weird, but also feels real. I’ve got my apartment and my job and friends and stuff, and I’m curious how it is going to be to leave Spain, and then come back here and have it as my home for another 6/7 months (at least).
Sorry for such a long post, but I’m gonna end up saying that I AM FLYING TO OHIO TOMORROW!! And I can’t wait 🙂
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